Tuesday, December 22, 2009

Thanksgivng for cold times sake

The time has come to update the blog. I’ve been a little lazy so it’s about time to kick it into gear, I guess. I accidentally put this and the last blog out of order, but whatever. Either way, let’s talk turkey
Being far away from home, it’s the holidays like Thanksgiving that can really take a toll on somebody’s toll. Far and away, the worst period for an American abroad is the period between the end of Thanksgiving and right after New Year’s. It’s a malaise that just sneaks up on you then slowly snowballs until all of the joy of life is sucked out of you. Of course, this feeling doesn’t persist forever, but it can make life miserable.
One of the best medications is to simply hang out with people you share the same predicament, which luckily Akmola Oblast and North Kazakhstan Oblast has about roughly 20 volunteers in the same state of being within easy train ride from each other. So, we all gathered in Zerenda, one of the resort towns in Akmola oblast. As we all trickled in, there were plenty of handshakes to older volunteers and warm hugs to all the familiar faces from PST. And then we proceeded to try and drain the town of all the beer in town…
Well, not exactly. I jest because the stores around has had only a given amount of beer and the fact that 20-odd people coming in to town and looking to buy up bottles of beer for 2 days of revelry leads me to at least that the owners of these stores were very happy with our many purchases, but maybe the rest of the thirsty populous wasn’t. Eh, we were all reasonable, so it was a good time.
So, the plan of it was very simple. We basically chatted around over a few beers, played Ultimate Snow Frisbee, which I’m glad to say the amazing team of Myles, Holly, Sholpan, Niall and yours truly creamed the other team, and made thanksgiving. There were massive amounts of stuffing, turkey shashlik (basically marinated kebabs), mashed potatoes, gravy, cranberry sauce, salad, fruit salad, pumpkin pie and chocolate bread. Any calories that may or may not have been lost during the Ultimate Frisbee match were officially gained back, and possibly tripled, during that feast. After toasts by everybody, some of us retired to the banya to clean ourselves and just chill in ridiculously scalding environments, which as some of you may have already divined from my previous posts is extraordinary. But literally the best part of it was just being around so many people and just talking in English with people who understand your position and can relate to you. So much of what you have to do here is diplomacy, trying to figure out if what you do and say is politically correct in new surroundings, making sure that you are understood instead of just having a makeshift human bobblehead nodding at you, worrying about whether you’re having an impact. In short, to relax, just plain relax. That’s definitely what I was thankful for this Thanksgiving.

Look Ma, I'm a Star

I have definitely been running around so much lately, which has made me feel a little guilty. I know I’m supposed to integrate within my community, but when it’s so damn cold out everybody’s running to get home and curl up next to the pechka (the central stove in homes here). Either way, I have a few ideas, including academic teams like back home in high school. I also want to do some financial education classes to kids and adults, especially since want happened not too long ago. In my school, when there are three bell rings in quick succession, that means there’s a teacher’s meeting, which annoys the hell out of me. Most of this is because there are only 6 classes in the day, so this destroys one of them, and the kids aren’t focused afterward. Unfortunately, we just got a new director, so these kinds of meetings are becoming more commonplace. Anyway, I prepared myself for the meeting, which is in both Russian and Kazakh, but instead the director or zavuch (vice-principal), we had a saleswoman from Kaspi Bank extolling the virtues of the credit available through her bank. Something about this smacks of the credit debacle back home, so I figure I might do some financial education when I learn enough Russian.
Anyway, back to the running around. So I have been to Kokshetau and Shuchinsk to the north of me because the older volunteers are there. However, I had a chance to go in the opposite direction, to Astana to do a radio interview. Jessie, one of the older volunteers who lives near Astana, invited us to do it, and I was the only one available. So, I packed my bags and headed to Shortandy. We headed the next day to the American Counsel to do an interview for one of the local radio stations, answering the standard questions about how we like Kazakhstan, why we chose to come here, etc. I still have to laugh about some of the questions, especially about the one about if I want my career to be a volunteer. Unfortunately, that’s not a very well-paying position, but I think I deftly swept it aside by saying that I want to have a career doing economic development with developing nations. The other one is always awkward is when they ask why we chose Kazakhstan, which in fact we did not. It’s always hard to see how they take the responses to that because we have to be truthful about it. I definitely can’t bullshit a good enough reason after spending half my time as a human popsicle.
Well Jessie and I stayed there and chatted with a few people who could be contacts to do events in Akmola oblast, then headed out for pizza, which may not sound extraordinary but is amazing after about a few months of potatoes in all its forms. After another night in the raging metropolis that is Shortandy (tongue in cheek of course), the boys all headed to Shuckinsk for our monthly banya night. It’s better because we supply the drinks and Segar supplies the awesome Indian food. I think I’m getting spoiled, but I guess any radio star eventually has to be brought down to earth to check his ego. Though I’m still waiting for my adoring admirers to come out of the cracks.

A little more about Makinsk

I can’t remember if I ever updated about my life here in Makinsk, but this sounds as good a time as any. I live in a home with Tatyana Pavelonvna, the psychologist who works at School #5, and that’s not just because she helps with the voices in my head. ;-) She is much more patient than my old host mom in Issyk was. I still don’t understand everything, but it’s easier and I’m a bit more motivated because there is a light at the end of the enormous tunnel that is the Russian language. Anyway, it’s her, her son Dema and Baba Vera, Tatyana’s mother. Dema is basically like my brother back home: obsessed with rock music, addicted to the computer and lacking in some maturity. But, I guess that should be considered standard for a 15-year-old. Baba Vera is kind of cool because she loves talking about Soviet times and the past. On the flip side, like old folks back home, she loves to talk about the various illnesses affecting her at the time. We live in a 4 room house that wraps around the central heating system that is the pechka, or a coal-burning stove that heats a central wall. When it’s baking, the house is hot, but otherwise it is cold.
I work at 2 schools now. The main school is School #5, which is a 15 minute walk from my home. It’s half-Russian language, half-Kazakh language, which gives it an interesting dynamic. It’s funny because some of the Russian classes have a lot of ethnic Kazakhs, but the Russian classes are much worse behaved than the Kazakh classes. Still haven’t figured out why. I have 4 teachers to work with, but mainly I work with Sara Amantaievna, who is very enthusiastic about the Peace Corps lesson plans. If she could just be a bit more forceful, I think she would be the model English teacher here. Guess that’s a project to work on. I haven’t worked with the other 3 that much, but they are young which is probably better than a bunch of old-school teachers who just work by the book. Unfortunately, that book is by a guy named Ayapova, and it is a monstrosity of a language book. There is no methodology and it repeatedly uses vocabulary that is over the students head. The other school is School #2 with Elena Yurievna who is a force of nature. In a nutshell, any stereotypes that you have ever heard about large, loud Russian women, that is Elena Yurievna. That’s not a slight against her because she is a very effective teacher and person to work with, but she is intimaditing.
The town isn’t small by village standards, but it is boring. Part of it may be the ridiculously cold temperatures. At night, it can get down to –35 and possibly –40 C, which is well below 0 F. But there’s a bank, a bazaar, some cafes and a train station on the electric train that goes between Astana and Kokshetau, which I can’t emphasize how important that is. It is very cheap to go in both directions and a lot of volunteers live on the train line, which allows us to all visit each other. I just need to make sure I don’t abuse that too much. Anyway, this is probably not as comprehensive as it could be, but that’s pretty much my life here.

Saturday, November 21, 2009

Banya thoughts

There’s something about roasting in a banya that’s as hot as a roasting oven, except for the fact that there’s nothing dry about it, that gives you a clear mind to have completely erratic thoughts. I guess me being a dim sum would be a more apt metaphor. Anyway, maybe your brain gets addled by the heat or something that just puts the most random thoughts. Anyway, I’m just starting teaching classes in a few days so here a few of my banya thoughts, the horror, the horror.

First of all, I’m still having trouble coming up with an idea why Kazakhstanis are able to fully insulate their banyas so that the hot air stays inside it, but they haven’t quite gotten to insulating their houses effectively so that the hot air doesn’t leak out. But, it definitely is better up North. But, for all their blustering about cold weather, Kazakhstanis can be babies about the cold whether.

Food here has been pretty good, but I say that about the North of Kazakhstan. As my friend Nikita pointed out, it’s a lot of variations of meat and starches, which is fine right now, as long as I don’t balloon up, which my host families have definitely been trying to do. Either way, there has been less oil up North, which has been great. Surprisingly, I’ve been getting a decent amount of fruit, though that’s bound to clear away. I have had the pleasure to have a persimmon for the first time, which are delicious, and pomegranates coming out of my ears, which I’ll happily take.

Technology was also on my mind. I work at a school that has seven interactive boards, mostly because this is an initiative by the president here, Nazarbayev. Now these boards are useful, and once I figure out how to use them, they will probably be a valuable tool. At the same time, I think the English textbooks they use could definitely upgraded, especially under the prices of the interactive board. This kind of reminds me of my classes at Carthage on development and the discussions there of how to develop a country. Do you build up the technology or do things that are more basic, such as the textbooks? There are examples for both sides, whether it’s just cell phones versus slight changes in basic services. I’m still undecided on which is better, though I lean towards the replacement of horrible textbooks, any new resources are probably good in whatever capacity, especially since there are so many young people making education an important part of government.

I probably had some more thoughts rolling through my head, some more profound than others and some down-right stupid (come on, it’s me) but it kind of got too hot. So if you can’t stand the heat, get out of the banya.

Quick update

As it always seems in this country, I’ve had plenty of new things to happen and far to little time to reflect upon it. So, as per normal, this’ll be a hack job on way too much information to filter down.
So, we said goodbye to our host families and saddled up towards the actual part of our service. First, there was fact that we had to swear-in as official volunteers, as we had been only trainees for the past 2 and a half months. After many speeches and song and dance numbers, we became official Peace Corps Volunteers, as opposed to unofficial volunteers. Either way, this was the beginning of what is our real service. Most people got on the train right away, but the group going to Akmola and North Kazakhstan. This was kind of fun, because it gave us time swap music and movies and bottles of beer. Never anything wrong with that.
Anyway, we boarded the train for a whole day’s journey. Luckily it was with Patrick and Sidd, a couple of my best friends. Sidd was actually scheduled to be in another room with Becky and her counterpart, but he was kind of smoked out by the counterparts BO. We basically passed the time by watching movies, listening to music, playing cards and eating ramen. Though that may sound like a dream to most guys, doing it in a room the size of a closet that is normally meant for 4 people is not necessarily nirvana. But I was fine.
Anyway, so after a day, I arrived in Makinsk where Sara, my counterpart, and one of her friends, Asset, picked me up immediately and brought me to my host family choices. Though I would have liked to have a little time to think about it, I guess it’s best to get that choice out the way. There was a choice between a pensioner and the psychologist at my school. I eventually chose Tatyana, the school psychologist, mostly because it was a family, with her, her son Dima and her mother. The grandmother is kind of hilarious because every once and a while, she spouts off random Soviet sayings. Anyway, so far it’s been pretty good. She’s very patient with me, which is definitely different than my host mom in Issyk. I’ve had the chance to meet with Sara and the other teachers at School 5 along with Yelena Yurievna at School 2, the other school I’ll be working at. However, the teachers in my district are furloughed right now, so there really isn’t much I can do right now. But this next week coming up, I should hit the ground rolling.
As for a little anecdote, it is absolutely freezing here. Today’s temp was hovering around 0, which is bad enough in normal circumstances. However, there is no running water here, so anytime I need to go to the toilet, I have to don boots and a jacket and run out to the squat toilet. And also pretty much pray to good that you don’t get any stomach ailments. The flipside is that your cleaning choice is the banya once a week. Now once a week may sound like not very much, but there’s something about sweating for 15-20 minutes and then washing it all off. It actually makes you feel cleaner than just a straight shower. It reminds me of taking a sauna and then washing off in the lake in Hackensack at Lac du Bois. It’s definitely refreshing. Anyway, this is enough rambling for today. The internet connection is less common here, so posts may be a little less often. Anyway, tata for now.

Saturday, October 24, 2009

Last week

Welcome to the last week of my training here in lovely Ecik. Actually, today I felt like I was back in Wisconsin, outside of the fact that there are no trees, mountains right in plan view, and everybody is trying to run each other over with cars. It's always the little things.
Anyway, this last week was a conference in Almaty to meet with our counterparts, with a little side project of spending a few tenge on supporting the Russian and Kazakhstani vodka industry. Everybody's hurting so every little bit counts. So my counterpart is Sara Ustazhanova and should be a good counterpart. She speaks English fairly well, has a law degree, but is pretty shy, so that will probably a slow building of trust. It will also be interesting because most of the English teachers at my school are 25 and some of them are single, so the hope is that this doesn't descend into a Kazakhstani game of the Bachelor. Well, maybe if they're cute. Haha.
Anyway, it was a lot of meetings and meetings in meetings, which can be extremely frustrating, but the fact that we're having means that they were deemed important by past groups of volunteers. It was nice to get out of Ecik for a while and just be pampered. Taking a shower everyday almost made me feel like a lush. I was dirty for being clean, which is the most ridiculous oxymoron out there, but it had some relevance.
It's actually kind of sad to think that we're all going to be scattered to the 4 ends of Kazakhstan in a week. I mean, I got lucky since I'll be in Akmola oblast where everybody is a few hour bus ride away from each other. But there are so many people I get along with who are going to be in the middle of nowhere or a 2 day train ride away (I'm not kidding, there are 2 day train rides here). But this is what we signed up for, being the only American person and helping develop this country in anyway possible. Well, there's not much to add, because I've been lounging around the hotel in useless meetings with a not very talkative person. Pretty soon I'll be in a new place with new stories. And maybe I'll post pictures of my clean-shaven self since I can't really have a beard in my region. Sucks. Well, I could be in the Domican Republic.

Monday, October 19, 2009

соль food and other musings

So, after a long delay, I have returned. There is a decent explanation for the fact that I haven't updated this. I've been sick and I am just a slight bit lazy. But that has been remedied and I've taken time out of my day to try and update my life as it stands.
First of all, since most of you don't speak Russian, the pun up there has to do with the fact that it's really starting to annoy me how much bloody salt they put into the food here. The two main condiments are salt and oil, which I like to think of as part of the reason why healthy living has become more difficult as of late. That and cravings for junk food have become more prevalent. Even with that, I'm pretty sure I've lost something like 15 pounds, which I have absolutely no qualms about.
We just finished up our classes at Tereshkova, which was a kind of sad event, though it was a hectic week. Last week, I was banned by Dr. Victor from teaching class, so instead of 4 classes one week and 5 classes the next, I had to teach 9 classes. This wasn't terrible since that is closer to my normal workload at site. I definitely enjoyed my 7a class, who blew me out of the water on all my lessons, which is much better than the alternative. Though the teachers may have been difficult to work with sometimes, the enthusiasm by the kids always made it better. We even got a decent showing to our community project, which was a job fair. The kids around here just simply don't know they're options, so we made sure to present some alternatives to them. It was definitely a good idea on Charlie and Janelle's part.
A week or two ago, we also found out about our future sites we will be working at, and it couldn't have happened at a better time. After 2 months together, it's easy to see that some of the nerves are starting to fray between the volunteers. That's one of the problems with being such a small community in difficult circumstances. Anyway, I'll be going to Makinsk and replacing a volunteer there, though I will be working at a different school. Makinsk is near the capital city of Astana in the North, so I'm already preparing for frigid winters. From the information I have, it's a fairly quiet town of 25,000 people, which is fine for me. Outside of the possibility of no running water, it seems like a nice place. As much as I'd like to give more information about it, I just don't have very much. The good thing is that the people in my area are awesome. Hannah, Holly, Molly, Miles and Audrey are all going to be near me and they are awesome people. Funnily enough, we're all from the north or the mountains, so I think we'll survive the weather.
So, next week, we meet our counterparts, and the week after that we do some teacher training, and then we have swearing-in, after which they boot us onto a train to our respective villages. Honestly, I'm excited to get there because we've had so much training, I think we just need to get to where we need to go. Ecik has been a great city, with some nice people, but it hasn't left much of an impression on me. There are some stand-outs, like the shashlik guy at Cafe Anna, who would always take time out of his day and practice Russian with us. Otherwise, the people I'll miss most are Peace Corps staff, like Olessya our technical trainer, and other Volunteers who will be far away, like Becca and Nick. Either way, I'll be here for a little longer, and hopefully I can have at least one more deep thought before I leave. :-)